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The Thar Desert lies in the Tharparkar District of Sindh and the Cholistan area of southern Punjab. Accommodation facilities in these two regions are quite dissimilar. The region in Tharparkar offers only basic guesthouses in Nagarparkar and Mithi, rest houses managed by the government and desert camping facilities. The region in Cholistan, on the other hand, offers hotels based out of Bahawalpur, which are relatively better, and desert camps located in other parts of the region.
In comparison to other regions of Pakistan, the Thar Desert is fairly underdeveloped in terms of the tourism infrastructure. The northern areas of Pakistan have hotels in abundance and offer travelers a wide range of options based on their budget. Tharparkar district has very few ‘star-rated’ hotels and the ones that exist often cater to government officials and international aid workers. The majority of travelers take Desert Safaris from either Mithi or Nagarparkar and stay at government rest houses, basic private guesthouses or camp facilities managed by safari operators.
Bahawalpur, which is nearest to Cholistan, has a decent mid range hotels and offers travelers a reasonably comfortable stay. Travelers also use Bahawalpur as a base to visit Derawar Fort. From there, travelers can also visit the surrounding areas of the Thar Desert.
Desert camping is the most popular and perhaps the most distinctive experience that the Thar region has to offer. Camping in other parts of Pakistan often means camping in dense forest or high alpine areas. Camping in Tharparkar, on the other hand, means camping on sand dunes. As one local guide explained to us, “Camping in the Thar Desert means experiencing a number of unusual elements all at the same time. You have the dunes. You have the night sky. You have the silence.” The best way to experience this is to go camping.
Hiring a good Thar camp means getting a tent that can withstand the low temperatures of the desert and getting sleeping bags that provide some warmth. Organizing a campfire is often part of the deal and means that campers get a meal. The best part of camping in the Thar, however, is often not the meal but rather watching the sun set and the colors of the desert change to shades of grey and blue.
Water and food must be brought or previously arranged to the camp, as there are no shops or supplied water in the dune areas. Camping through a tour operator mean that food, water, and firewood or camping gas will be provided.
Some tour operators set up camps in the open areas of the Thar Desert, while others set up camps adjacent to Thari villages. The camps set up in the open areas give campers the feeling of being in the wild with very little or no facilities. The camps set up near Thari villages give campers an opportunity to meet and greet members of the local community, learn more about their way of life and enjoy local music. It is worthwhile to set aside a couple of nights to enjoy both types of camps.
There are very few amenities in the Thar guesthouses. Expect shared bathrooms and cold water showers. Meals will be simple, and you may not get hot water at night. While the Thar guesthouses don't warrant a visit to the Thar, they do offer a roof and meal before exploring the desert.
When this is published, the HT team should include the verified partner properties they have in Mithi.
There are even fewer properties in Nagarparkar compared to Mithi. Several guesthouses serve visitors who want to go to the temples and hills. All of these are very basic, and supply and choice are limited. It is best to plan your trips in advance to Nagarparkar, especially if you are planning to go during the Thar Festival or when a Hindu pilgrimage is happening.
There are also government run rest houses in Tharparkar managed by the Sindh Tourism Department. These offer better facilities and are bookable. They are the only accommodation options if commercial hotels are not available.
It may be prudent to confirm the condition and availability of rest houses in Tharparkar through the Sindh Tourism Development Corporation or your local operator prior to finalizing an itinerary. Permission from the concerned authority may be required to use government rest houses.
Bahawalpur has a good hotel market, catering to the needs of business and official travelers as well as leisure visitors. Most of these hotels have facilities such as attached bathrooms, in-house restaurants, generators, and other urban amenities. The desert of Cholistan has bare minimum facilities.
When compared to Lahore and Karachi, Bahawalpur does not have an adequate hotel market. However, it is better than hotels in Tharparkar. Bahawalpur is located en route to Cholistan from the north of the country, and it offers good lodging facilities and the convenience of daily desert excursions and a visit to Derawar Fort.
As of the time of writing, named hotels in Bahawalpur were not accessible. It is understood that the HT team will contact their local colleagues in Bahawalpur to ascertain the status of the partner hotels prior to publication.
The Derawar Fort is about a 2 to 3 hour drive from Bahawalpur. Many travelers make the early morning drive to the fort, spend some time there and at the adjacent mosque, and return to Bahawalpur in the evening. This allows travelers to see the fort and experience a desert fort. Additionally, some travel and tour operators provide camping services in the Cholistan Desert near the Derawar Fort. Travelers using these operators stay in a hotel in Bahawalpur and camp in the desert near the fort.
A) For the cultural Tharparkar experience
Staying for a day or two in a guesthouse in Nagarparkar or Mithi, and a day in a campsite in a village in the desert would show visitors the type of accommodation available in the Thar. The guesthouse stays show visitors temples, the markets and the hills. Camping in the desert shows visitors the stars and the silence.
A hotel in Bahawalpur city is a good option to stay and do day trips to Derawar fort. Hotels in Bahawalpur provide comfortable facilities. If visitors wish to experience camping in the desert, a night camping facility has been arranged near Bahawalpur.
For families and groups with children or members of different physical abilities, the best option is to stay at Mithi for the Tharparkar region. Most of the temple sites and villages are near the guesthouses. The temple sites are easier to reach from Mithi and a day trip to the Thar desert to watch the sunset can be arranged. A night's camping is not required. For camping, pre-arranged camps are safer and more comfortable than wild camping.
During winter in the Thar, especially at night, the temperature drops drastically. Camping or staying at guesthouses with thin bedding or no preparation for low temperature becomes uncomfortable. It is essential to check if the camp or guesthouse has facilities to keep the guests warm during cold winter nights.
Summer time in Thar means unrelenting heat, especially at night. Camping in Thar during this season means scorching temperatures during the day and freezing nights with no means of artificial cooling. We recommend against summer travel to Thar.
For camping, food and water must be transported. Camp operators must be contacted regarding the amount of water provided per person per day, and the plan of action in case the camp is held over unexpectedly.
Meals are available at the guesthouses in Mithi and Nagarparkar, but dietary restrictions may not be catered to. Timings and inclusions of meals must be verified.
Mobile connection in Tharparkar is limited to the main towns. Beyond the main towns and towards the borders, signal becomes weak. Like food and water, camps beyond the main towns must be equipped to be completely off-grid.
What to ask, what to check, what to avoid
A. Ask
Is the desert camp new for this camping season?
Is the guide for the Tharparkar section an outsider (from Karachi/ Hyderabad) or a local Thari guide?
How much and in what form (jerrycans, tankers, etc.) is the water provision for the camp?
Has the relevant authority confirmed the booking for the government rest house?
B. Check
What is the latest situation in regard to the security situation in the district?
What is the condition of the roads between Mirpurkhas and Mithi? What is the state of the tracks between dune and village areas?
When is the Thar Festival this year?
When is the camping season this year?
C) Avoid
Misunderstanding “desert resort” or “desert camp” to mean a permanent resort or camp. Thar camps can be seasonal and the level of service can differ between camps.
Traveling to the interiors of the desert without enough fuel, water and food. Breakdown of vehicles in the desert can be very challenging.
Visiting Thar during the summer months (from April to September). During summer, the temperatures can be extremely high and the guest houses and other places where tourists stay do not have proper means to beat the heat.
C) What are the safety concerns of camping in the Thar Desert?
There are a number of travel concerns during off-season (June to September) camping in the Thar Desert, including extreme heat, no access to services or support, and the potential for water shortages. From October to February, camping in Thar is safer, and most travelers feel the concerns listed above are outweighed by the attraction of being in the desert at that time of the year.
D) What is the temperature like in winters in Tharparkar?
Depending on the year, the minimum temperatures during December and January can drop to near 0 degrees Celsius. Tharparkar is a dry and cold region at night, and if camping during these months, travelers should ensure they have adequate warm clothings and sleeping bags. During the day the temperatures are moderate, and can be warm during the afternoons, especially in the winter months.
E) Where does Bahawalpur offer stay options for Cholistan visits?
There are a number of good hotels available in Bahawalpur. For those wishing to camp near the Bellamar creek, arrangements can be made with one of the companies that operate in the region.
Mid-range hotels in Bahawalpur have dining facilities and generators. Some are used as base facilities by tourists visiting the Derawar Fort and the Cholistan area. As of now, the HT team has information about which hotels are functioning better. This information can be shared with your operator.
Accommodation in the Thar Desert and Cultural Circuit of Tharparkar and a tour of the Cholistan and Derawar Forts are some of the packages offered by Hospitality Tours and Services (HT). HT can also organize camp logistics. Nothing is charged until you approve a tour package.
WhatsApp: +92 341 111 3777
Email: info@hospitalitytours.com
Website: www.hospitalitytours.com.pk