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About 100 kilometers southeast of Skardu, in the Ghanche District of Gilgit-Baltistan, on the banks of the Shyok River, is the beautiful Khaplu Valley. It is home to the Serena Hotels’ heritage property Khaplu Palace, the entrance to the Hushe Valley trek, and offers a lesser traveled section of Baltistan. Skardu and the Hunza Valley get the bulk of the tourist traffic, and people that make the journey to Khaplu tend to extend their stay.
A perception of the depth and breadth of Khaplu Valley is lost on most first-time visitors because they rely on 2-dimensional maps. The Shyok River carries the runoff from the mountains that forming the valley and create an abrupt wall on either side. Khaplu borders Ladakh and the Line of Control, and Trekking permits are required to visit the upper reaches of the Hushe Valley.
Most tourists to Khaplu stay at the Serena Hotels’ heritage property, the Khaplu Palace, walk the old towns and surrounding Balti villages, and make day trips to Hushe Valley. With wise time management, a stay of two to three nights covers most of the attractions in the valley.
Road from Skardu to Khaplu
The drive from Skardu to Khaplu takes around three hours to cover 100 kilometers. The road follows the Shyok River and passes through a number of villages, and agricultural land. The road finally descends to Khaplu town.
Some sections of the road are unpaved. However, a normal car can easily maneuver the road to Khaplu town. A high clearance jeep is required to traverse the road to Hushe Valley beyond Khaplu town.
Road from Islamabad to Skardu
The Karakoram Highway from Islamabad to Skardu is around 700 kilometers long. It takes around two days to cover this distance with an overnight stay at Chilas or Gilgit. From Skardu, it takes another three hours to reach Khaplu.
Flight from Islamabad to Skardu
Flights from Islamabad to Skardu are operated only in good weather conditions. The Skardu airport is a dirt airstrip and operates according to Visual Flight Rules. Cancellations are common. It is recommended to travel with a road transport back up if Skardu is the final destination. Travelers should not to depend on the flight if they have a strict, onward, time bound, commitment from Skardu.
The ruling family of Khaplu built the Palace over a number of centuries and it served as the family’s residence. The Aga Khan Trust for Culture and other organizations partnered with the local community to restore the Palace. Unlike some restorations where the architectural methods and styles of that particular period are not understood, and the structure is rebuilt with modern materials, this restoration sought to understand the historical construction methods. Hence, in this case the facade was restored with the original design and architectural elements.
The Palace is now a heritage hotel operated by Serena Hotels and is also part of the Shigar Fort Residence in Shigar Valley. Both hotels are part of Serena Hotels and strive to keep the historical architecture of a region while providing first-class lodging.
The Palace has a limited number of guest rooms. The rooms in the main Palace building have heavy wooden doors and wooden ceilings. The Shyok Valley can be seen from the palace rooms, and the ceilings of the rooms in the main palace building have Balti carvings. The guest rooms in the guest house have the same layout as the rooms in the main palace building, but are not as ornate.
Know the section of the Palace the guest rooms are in before making a reservation because the guest rooms in the guest house and the guest rooms in the main palace building are very different.
C) Dining and facilities
Dining options at the Palace are limited and none exist in Khaplu that are of any practical use to guests. Verify what meals are included in your fees and any dietary considerations.
The palace garden and other public areas of the Palace are worth visiting and are available to guests at all hours.
D) Day visitor access
Day visitors are allowed and may take tours of the Palace and some adjacent areas. To confirm the tour schedule and hours of operation contact your tour operator. Tour hours change based on local demand.
This site offers more opportunity for guided interpretation, especially in relation to how the various elements of the built environment have evolved and functioned over time. Relationships between the Palace and the Mosque and their surrounding neighborhoods are also of interest but are not labeled.
Old Mosques:
Constructed before the restoration of the Palace, a number of old mosques can be found in the area. Some of these are good examples of Baltistan architecture and construction and are documented in architectural publications. Local staff or a guide may have additional information.
Haldi:
Noted in local guide books and itineraries, Haldi is home to an old mosque, and, like Khaplu Palace, retains traditional construction and architectural designs. It is located near Khaplu. A walk through the old mosque and traditional homes of Haldi provides a look at village life not seen at the Palace.
Polo:
Given the importance of the horse in Baltistan, and polo in particular, watch for scheduled matches during your visit.
A) Location and Use
Hushe Valley branches south from the Khaplu area and contains the approach to base camps for Masherbrum, K6 and Chogolisa. The drive from Khaplu to Hushe village takes 1-2 hours.
Trekking and mountaineering expeditions utilize the valley. At the end of the motorable road is the village of Hushe which provides simple guest facilities. Areas above the village provide access to high mountain passes and glaciers.
B) For Visitors not trekking
A day trip from Khaplu gives visitors a look at the upper part of the Karakoram. The road to Hushe and return takes the better part of a day.
The lower part of the Hushe Valley can be walked by the average person. The upper part of Hushe Valley and beyond requires technical equipment and experience as well as a licensed mountain guide.
C) For Trekkers and Climbers
Many agencies in Skardu offer mountaineering and trekking expeditions to the high Karakoram. These expeditions can take from 2-5 weeks and require a licensed guide and porters. Some routes and passes approach the Line of Control and restricted areas and require additional clearances.
Because of the time required to process permits and to secure guides and other equipment, travelers should finalize their plans to trek beyond Hushe lower village more than 1 month prior to their planned departure. Making arrangements of this nature require a longer lead time compared to most other areas of Northern Pakistan.
In October, visitor numbers fall and the change in position of the sun results in different light on the peaks over the Shyok Valley. The Hushe road can become blocked by snow higher up in October. From November to March, the upper parts of the valley are uninhabited and the only road access to Hushe is blocked. Khaplu town is accessible the whole year, though it has very little to offer.
B) Check before traveling
To see whether permits are necessary for the routes you want to take. Most Pakistani nationals don't need permits to visit the Khaplu area. Non-Pakistani nationals need to confirm about the permits for the trekking routes from Hushe, which are restricted, with their tour operators.
About the condition of the road from Skardu to Khaplu, especially if you are traveling at the beginning or the end of the season.
To get a confirmation about the palace room availability for the days you want to stay.
C) Avoid
Traveling to Khaplu and back to Skardu in just one day. It takes about three hours to reach Khaplu from Skardu. A two to three night stay at Khaplu is adequate to visit the Palace and the old town of Khaplu and make an excursion to Hushe Valley.
Trying to cover all the attractions of the Skardu, Khaplu and Shigar valleys in less than a week.
Adding Hushe to your itinerary if you don't have the time for an over night stay. It takes 2-3 hours to reach Hushe from Khaplu.
How far is Khaplu from Islamabad?
It takes approximately two days to reach Skardu from Islamabad, which is about 680 to 700 kilometers away. From Skardu, it takes another three hours to reach Khaplu. Thus, it takes about two and a half days to reach Khaplu from Islamabad. The weather in Skardu changes quickly, and flights can be canceled, so most travelers take a road trip from Skardu to Khaplu.
What is the best time to go to Khaplu Valley?
Generally, visitors come to Khaplu during the summer season, from June through September. July and August are the most popular months for trekking and for visiting the Palace. The best month is September, because the weather is more pleasant and there are less visitors. April and May are also good months to visit, because there are less visitors, and the weather is more pleasant. Trekking in October is not recommended because the roads to the upper regions of the valley are blocked by snow.
Is a permit required to visit Khaplu?
Pakistani citizens do not need permits to visit Khaplu and Hushe valleys. Permits are required from the Ministry of Interior, if a person wishes to trek to restricted areas beyond Hushe. Foreign nationals should confirm permit requirements from their service providers.
How many days should I spend in Khaplu Valley?
You should plan for a minimum of 2 nights but a better plan would be to spend 3 nights. With 3 nights you would have time for the Palace, old town, a visit to Haldi Village, and a complete Hushe Valley day trip. Keep in mind that the only direct transportation to Khaplu Valley is from Skardu and the drive there and back takes a significant amount of time.
Is Khaplu Palace worth staying at?
Yes, it is a unique experience to stay at a heritage building and it provides a different kind of stay experience compared to the other resort and hotel stays in Northern Pakistan. The Palace is not lacking by any means, and the experience there is not supposed to compare to a modern and fully functional mid-range hotel.
Can children visit Khaplu Valley?
Children are able to visit Khaplu town, the Palace, and the surrounding villages. Keep in mind that anything beyond Hushe Village requires an extended and more difficult journey. The operator should be contacted if you wish to discuss any part of your itinerary with them before it is finalized.
What are the hiking trails out of Hushe Valley?
The principal trails out of Hushe Valley lead to base camps for Masherbrum, K6 and Chogolisa. These require multi week, expedition style treks, including engagement of licensed guides and porters, and the transport and setup of all camping and related equipment by the trek party. These expeditions require trekking permits and should only be considered for planning by seasoned trekkers. They are beyond the scope of regular tour planning.
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